Climbing nuts vs hexes reddit. If there are a lot of pin scars they can be useful.

Climbing nuts vs hexes reddit I like hexes. Traditional climbing: use at your own risk. Same thing when I did own the Torque Nuts before I sold them in favor of the Rockcentrics. This shape is considered more secure in flares and pin scars. ehh sorry for the wonky formatting :/ 28 votes, 22 comments. The same with those “double ended nuts” with different sizes on each end of the same cable. Trying to master my gear placement though. I am always placing them before my BD nuts. Moved Permanently. That being said, I love cams. Double Cap. If that doesn't work either, hold your nut tool under the nut and hit it with a big hex. you can supplement with bigger or smaller gear if you need to. 5->3), a set of hexes and a standard set of nuts. Jan 8, 2024 · In the late 1980s into the 1990s in UK climbing, there was a decisive move away from a mix of individually racked hexes of all sizes & medium nuts on cord towards using only larger hexes, plus nuts on wire (with quickdraws) due to ease of use. But it depends on rock type of course. That being said, stacks like this were used in clean aid climbing in the 90s. 3” for wedgeshaped nuts and 3. A set from 0. Apologies again for the firehose of comments, I like to nerd out about climbing nuts and hexes. Once I finally got out and started using some cams, I got hooked. Posted by u/[Deleted Account] - 1 vote and 17 comments I'm looking to buy some cams/nuts/hexes for building top ropes and or rappels at Joshua Tree. “Passive pro” is a subcategory that includes climbing nuts or stoppers, hexes, and Tricams—basically anything designed to catch you by wedging itself in place in the event of a fall. if you can place a hex = elephant bomb proof! but the weight, take only what you expect to place size 3 & 6 if you have a full set of nuts. Another upside of using strictly hexes and nuts is that if/when you decide to invest in cams you have a better understand of where works well for what kind of gear. Cams and hexes go next, distributed on both sides, then nuts at the front. There’s also the question of how much gear you actually need to get started—a decision that must balance your own financial constraints with the common fear of not having enough gear to make it to the For any beginner trad climber I'd have suggested starting with a much smaller rack (maybe nuts, and single from 0. You can turn a Dyneema hex into an ATC when you drop your belay device on a multipitch, can't do that with a Posted by u/PulpFiction849 - 16 votes and 29 comments Posted by u/scientificsax - 5 votes and 8 comments 1. They don’t have any moving parts. Set of nuts (black diamond stoppers or dmm wallnuts) possibly also a couple of individual large hexes. Oct 31, 2024 · The Best Nuts and Stoppers. I will have lot of webbing to wrap boulders when possible. g. Jun 21, 2022 · It's because hexes are best thought of (and most often used as) giant nuts (which can be used as cams in some situations), whereas tricams are best thought of as cams and used as such. Tricams have a reputation for being fiddly and slow to place, thus people buy cams instead. I was wondering if they're still safe considering their age. If you plan to travel down to the gunks (worth it) buy a set of tricams (consider double pinks). Also there has been talk about buying whole DMM torque set (4 pieces) to supplement our cams for belays, and save cams for hard climbing. 4M subscribers in the climbing community. You'll find in the UK, most climbers skip the cams for their first rack and will opt for hexes instead as they are cheaper and work very similarly to nuts. In Kouba, we understand specific needs of every climber, that's, why we offer ten different shapes of nuts and three different types of cams. We're more used to climbing on two ropes. Happy Climbing! I agree. 4'-5' per length of cord, giving a loop somewhere in the 18" to 20" range is usually good, but this has a lot to do with your preference. Climbing nuts, also known as chocks or stoppers, are passive protection devices that wedge into cracks to secure the climber's rope. American climber here who’s beginner rack started with BD nuts. Aug 8, 2022 · A typical set of nuts, also called wires or chocks, consists of 10 to 12 pieces that start small—less than . I would not use the locking carabiner, there have been significant advances since then. 7). Sep 6, 2013 · The Tricam is a puzzling piece: It’s delightfully simple, with no active—or moving—parts, yet it has more potential uses than either a spring-loaded camming device (SLCD) or a standard nut. May 2020. If this doesn't work, tap it from below with your nut tool. 5-3 C4 cam size. Nuts DMM wallnuts 1-11 BD stoppers 1-13, and microstoppers 3-4 Wild Country hexes 8-9 oh and ropes! We have a 70m single, and 50m halfs. I will be picking up one to fill the gap between by DMM's and sets of nuts. We would like to show you a description here but the site won’t allow us. I can confirm that they’re inferior to most other nuts. Sep 15, 2014 · CGR gives the Kouba Climbing Nut Sets a full test to see if value means performance. It's hard to beat a textbook hex placement, and they do not walk into a crack like a cam. You really can do almost anything on passive gear. The DMM ones are the best on the market right now, in my opinion. WC do smaller sizes I think. Posted by u/Cmac1625 - 73 votes and 32 comments But with that said, I wouldn’t say towhook VW climbing webbing is a clear fight. 2 to 4?) and getting used to what you like and don't like before getting doubles. There's a mostly-large-nuts krab and a mostly-small-nuts krab, with a bit of overlap between the two. That being said this method is not for the feint of heart. This protection, also called pro, is placed in cracks and fissures as you climb up, and then removed, or cleaned, when you’re done, so all you leave on the rock is a few chalk marks. Posted by u/ProXJay - 2 votes and 3 comments May 29, 2020 · Hexes: Popular before the advent of cams, hexes are essentially hexagonal nuts. They come in a variety of shapes and sizes to fit different cracks and offer versatile protection. Nuts Buying Guide. You can hammer them into icy cracks. Don't be afraid to hit them hard with your nut tool; they're very durable. Which neither of us own. The buck stops with parallel CLIMBING NUTS, CAMS AND HEXES. 82 votes, 51 comments. Offset nuts are considered more of a supplement, whereas standard ones are just that: standard. I also instruct my second how to easily remove them. But the dmm offset nuts are great. Our climbing experts have been testing the best climbing nuts and stoppers for over 10 years and over 15 different sets. As both #11 nuts in both brands are about the same size. However, if a hex has rotated into place tightly, you'll have to reverse the way it rotated in order to retrieve it. I would get them before any BD nuts. 40 votes, 28 comments. Mar 14, 2016 · Or practice placing hexes in the small cammed position, then remove it and place the next size down in the large cammed position which should be the same size. " Apr 27, 2022 · A wave of articles followed: Robbins’ “Nuts to You” in the Californiabased climbing magazine Summit; Tom Frost’s “Preserving the Cracks” in the 1972 American Alpine Journal; and perhaps most eloquently, Doug Robinson’s “The Whole Natural Art of Protection” in one of clean climbing’s holy scripts, the 1972 Chouinard Equipment There's several reddit threads about building racks and other brand analyses. Place the nut with the cable facing in the direction of pull if you were to take a fall, which is generally down and slightly out. The hexes and stoppers are worth keeping, but not useful on a climbing wall. 75. Now they just stay at home. The rest of the nuts will slide to the bottom of the carabiner as you're inserting the piece. 5-3 bd camalots The Rockcentrics do come in more sizes, but mostly on the smaller end of the scale. Tbh not much to choose between the two, both are great. Wild Country Rockcentrics are an excellent choice. Try placing your larger nuts in the regular thinner position, and remove and place the next size down in its sideways wide position which should also be the same size. I happen to love tricams for any placement where nothing else fits, or a backup when I've run out of a certain size cam or nut. It took me years of climbing on gear here to figure it out but they are actually useful as fuck. I am a seasoned all-around climber. I'm not terribly… My $0. Their alloy offset nuts are also incredible. . Good places to stand and place and fiddle with a hex are good places to break an ankle. BD makes the holes kind of small for this. I'm not looking to lead trad climbs, I just want some pro for building anchors. This! If you are doing TR only, they are my favorite hexes and you can set up probably any TR with just hexes and nuts - but they can be a pain to use in "cam mode" with just one hand. I grew up climbing at the Lake and started off using hexes, nuts, webbing and some cordelette. Anywhere they work a cam usually will too though, so i don't use them too much, just once in awhile. 3M subscribers in the climbing community. Posted by u/[Deleted Account] - 5 votes and 15 comments Quickdraws and slingdraws go next-from-back, my reasoning being that if I grab the wrong-length quickdraw, that's much less of a problem than grabbing the wrong size nut. Just use the sideways long end of the nut tool and smack the hex as hard as you can from the wire or sling side like your hitting something with a hammer. But like all that shiny climbing gear, they are a tool that have their limitations. Also by carefully calculating the relative side angles the expansion range is increased. 5” for six-sided hexes. Micro Nuts. I picked up a set of nuts and hexes that were mostly made by Chouinard. Then you could have made the decision, informed by experience that you do not, nor will you ever need will never need hexes. Use the side of the nut tool and smack the hex as hard as you can the opposite way it went in. (Nuts are the foundation on which UK trad climbing is built). 17K subscribers in the tradclimbing community. The figure 8 is probably still good; but no one uses them anymore. I'd get a full rack of nuts (if you want to save money maybe not buy the first couple small guys), the mid to small sizes in hexes and webbing/cordelette. Active and passive placement. Also hexes work much better when you are Scottish winter climbing. Next time you have a route with a long approach that uses a double rack, take the tricams instead of the second set. Write for UKC Gear Latest Gear Gear News Gear Reviews Competitions Latest Deals Product Videos Nov 23, 2016 · Hey Matt, if you are going up the learning curve in trad climbing, I highly recommend you buying hexes. Active pro refers mainly to cams, unless you are climbing a wide crack (called an offwidth), which might require the active pro known as a Big Bro. Dyneema comes in pretty colours! (aside from aesthetics, it's actually useful for grabbing the one you are looking for first time). As noted by u/muenchener it might date from the late 70's but I suspect it's from earlier then that. I think the torque nuts are a cool design and if I was wealthy I'd probably get some. The home of Climbing on reddit. Fair enough in a horizontal break, then it's cams or tricams, otherwise its always a whacking great hex or a nice snug nut that makes me feel safe. These are “standard” sizes to look for when first building your rack. 25” wide—and go up to about 1. Offset cams are nice for flaring pin scars-- if you climb places where this is common (e. So I’ve recently started trad climbing and have only led 2 very easy ones (5. Totems are expensive but nice to have in the smaller sizes. 1. The judgement we need to select a placements for Hexes and Tri cams is very similar to selecting a nut placement. (Edit: just looked it up. wwfq tbmkh ccbjo hwiaf mtlk liwjl eyx urrokh cdl nkxlps waolkk jugd lzqd sahtv bain