Climbing nuts vs hexes But like all that shiny climbing gear, they are a tool that have their limitations. But no crack is truly parrallel so you should find a spot to place a bomber hex somewhere on the route. Their shape means they can be used in multiple orientations, giving you a wide range of placement options with every piece. Our climbing experts have been testing the best climbing nuts and stoppers for over 10 years and over 15 different sets. Initially made from actual machine nuts with the internal thread drilled out, they have undergone several stages of development in the last few decades, resulting in the wonderful colour-coded super-strong designs we ha Nov 3, 2011 · Camming a hex in a vertical crack takes practice and time. Some climbers prefer cams instead of hexes as they are usually more versatile, if more expensive and slightly less reassuring. Obviously this resulted in carrying more equipment so was heartily encouraged by gear manufacturers. Use the side of the nut tool and smack the hex as hard as you can the opposite way it went in. This makes them more known/acceptable/seen out in the wild so become a more standard staple of a rack. Learn the skills to stay safe and have confidence when climbin Since moving back to NC, we used them rarely and when we do its usually one of the smaller sizes. Standard nuts are the backbone of any traditional climbers rack. Nov 8, 2008 · Large homemade nuts had been around in the UK for many years, made from both large machine nuts, wooden blocks and even pipe, and in most articles about the history of the big nut it’s usually Tom Frost who’s given the honour of designing the first proper alloy hex, with the Chouinard Hexentric which appeared in 1971. I rarely use the hexes, occasionally use the tricams, often use the nuts, and same for my new cams. com/en-GB/stores/ Hexes are an old type of climbing protection that are seldom seen on climber's racks since the introduction of cams. Sep 6, 2013 · The Tricam is a puzzling piece: It’s delightfully simple, with no active—or moving—parts, yet it has more potential uses than either a spring-loaded camming device (SLCD) or a standard nut. the size 1-4 Torques are pretty much similar to the wild country rocks 11-14, so they are great for the bigger sizes. A solid nut placement in a crack is bomber enough to take a big fall from a lead climber. You can turn a Dyneema hex into an ATC when you drop your belay device on a multipitch, can't do that with a Nuts are available in different shapes to help the climber find the best fit for a given crack. Aug 8, 2022 · There are much smaller nuts, like RPs, and much larger ones, like hexes (see page 28 for more info on specialized passive pro). Camalot™ Repair Service. First off is the rock secure than then you need to look at how well the device sits in the shape of crack. Jan 8, 2024 · In the late 1980s into the 1990s in UK climbing, there was a decisive move away from a mix of individually racked hexes of all sizes & medium nuts on cord towards using only larger hexes, plus nuts on wire (with quickdraws) due to ease of use. Hexes clean as quickly as a nut that you need a nut tool to get out, often times quicker. Nov 12, 2019 · As an emergency extender the dyneema works better (basically the previous point) if extending a nut. Hexes are just a footnote in climbing history for practical applications these days. Jan 22, 2010 · When I first started trad climbing all I could afford were nuts, hexes, and tricams. Then it can be removed by hand. “Passive pro” is a subcategory that includes climbing nuts or stoppers, hexes, and Tricams—basically anything designed to catch you by wedging itself in place in the event of a fall. Sep 15, 2014 · CGR gives the Kouba Climbing Nut Sets a full test to see if value means performance. Starter nut sets include a few larger micro nut sizes in the assortment. Let us know what else you want to see!6kN Nut Tests: Jan 21, 2022 · Neil Gresham gives us a masterclass in the basics of placing nuts as Trad climbing protection. The extendable slings on DMM ones are well annoying and the ones on wire have no benefit. WC every day for me. They can be placed passively (like a nut) or actively (like a cam), depending on the orientation and features in the rock. Usually one or two hits and it rattles loose. Also hexes work much better when you are Scottish winter climbing. While the original unit had two placements (one passive, one active), the Shop our climbing camalots, stoppers & more rock climbing protection gear today. com/jbmountainOr buy a Sling Mountain T Shirt?! https://teespring. Dyneema comes in pretty colours! (aside from aesthetics, it's actually useful for grabbing the one you are looking for first time). My hexes sit at the bottom of my gear closet now and have since the day I doubled my my cams. Often, a little wiggle will unseat the nut, enabling it to be pushed up and out. " CLIMBING NUTS, CAMS AND HEXES. TN 1=Rockcentric 5+6, TN 2=Rock 6 What Is Passive Climbing Protection? Climbing protection, or “pro” for short, is any kind of removable gear that you slot into the rock to catch a fall. When I started trad climbing, I couldn't afford the cams, so I led exclusively on nuts, hexes, and tricams for probably 40 of my first 50 pitches on gear. Going back to your point on cams not being necessary below VS. Learn how to place, remove and rack climbing hexes. Shop our climbing camalots, stoppers & more rock climbing protection gear today. I will not be setting a top rope just off these nuts or hexes but just to incorporate them. Have also used hexes a belay stations to save cams and used hexes to bail off routes in emergency. Rating: 4. 00 - to May 6, 2008 · I'd say skip the hexes altogether and use the money to buy doubles of cams. The buck stops with parallel Sep 22, 2009 · "What the Torque Nuts achieve is a combination of curves and pivot points which allow the nut to cam correctly. Wiregate Nut Tool. Want to buy me a coffee or the boy a dog treat?! https://www. So, similar to nuts, hexes are a nice replacement for SLCDs on climbs where weight is important and one can expect to make pro placements from easier stances or have more options for placements. While there are several different types of passive pro, including hexes, chocks, and Tricams, the most common type is the nut, also called a stopper. Apr 23, 2022 · Nuts, Hexes and Tricams for Rock Climbinghttps://rockclimb. Larger nuts can be placed in either of two aspects (hexes in three aspects) to suit different-width cracks, with either the main faces or the sides in contact with the rock. They do also work in irregular/chossy/slimy cracks. e. Active pro refers mainly to cams, unless you are climbing a wide crack (called an offwidth), which might require the active pro known as a Big Bro. Each employs a noticeably different wedge-end shape than you find on a typical nut. Hexes are completely different and mostly used as passive camming placements. 6. However, they do have advantages over cams in certain situations. Therefore we've been thinking on buying maybe one big Hex or blue DMM's torque nut just in case we might need something so big for the route. In the beginning of your trad climbing career you should focus on building a solid nut rack and learning to place them well. A range of 'Nuts and Hexes Climbing Equipment' from The Climbers Shop and Joe Brown Shops Moved Permanently. Mar 3, 2012 · I like the old school slung hexes because I can girth hitch slings to them and eliminate a carabiner while placing them in really deep cracks. I carry 3 or so hexes on any unknown trad line where they look appropriate. They are certainly another tool in the chest for trad climbing. A typical trad rack will contain 10-12 nuts and maybe one or two mid-size hexes. If this doesn't work, tap it from below with your nut tool. If that doesn't work either, hold your nut tool under the nut and hit it with a big hex. Fair enough in a horizontal break, then it's cams or tricams, otherwise its always a whacking great hex or a nice snug nut that makes me feel safe. (Nuts are the foundation on which UK trad climbing is built). Jan 8, 2024 · Write for UKC Gear Latest Gear Gear News Gear Reviews Competitions Latest Deals Product Videos Aug 12, 2004 · Interesting you trust cams more than nuts or hexes, I'm the complete opposite. buymeacoffee. Oct 28, 2016 · Trad climbing requires a large and somewhat complex set of gear that’s used instead of bolts to stop a fall. May 2020. Also by carefully calculating the relative side angles the expansion range is increased. Up until about a month ago I had to borrow other people's gear if I wanted to use cams. They do though admittedly have a less superior sling setup than DMM Torque Nuts, but at least they are slung which is important to not having them rattle loose from rope movement like the wired hexes Oct 25, 2022 · Sport climbing is the most popular form of outdoor roped climbing and is also practiced indoors in climbing gyms all over the world. Because nuts cost much less than cams, it’s common to double up on the small sizes of the standard nut range for gear-intensive routes. To be removed from a crack, a nut will need to reverse the way it went in. . Jun 21, 2022 · Hexes give access to protection in cracks bigger than a nut at a cost more amenable than cams so are popular when starting out. $10. I also instruct my second how to easily remove them. Oct 31, 2024 · The Best Nuts and Stoppers. video-----Although "Rock Climb" will have more than 100 videos (7 hours+ of content), the pro Jan 8, 2024 · In the late 1980s into the 1990s in UK climbing, there was a decisive move away from a mix of individually racked hexes of all sizes & medium nuts on cord towards using only larger hexes, plus nuts on wire (with quickdraws) due to ease of use. They are also lighter than the equivalent sized cam. Climbing nuts, also known as chocks or stoppers, are passive protection devices that wedge into cracks to secure the climber's rope. Which neither of us own. Just use the sideways long end of the nut tool and smack the hex as hard as you can from the wire or sling side like your hitting something with a hammer. In my experience, they aren't so commonly used anymore. Nuts appear to be rated based on the wire attached to them. Also there has been talk about buying whole DMM torque set (4 pieces) to supplement our cams for belays, and save cams for hard climbing. Photo Galleries; My Photo Gallery; Latest Photos; Weekly Top 10; Videos; Latest Videos; Categories; Hashtags; Athletes; Search The judgement we need to select a placements for Hexes and Tri cams is very similar to selecting a nut placement. DMM Wales are the only manufacturer of rock climbing and industrial access gear based in the UK -- I make videos for them to show off the features and great Mar 1, 2016 · I'm new to outdoor climbing and am trying to build a solid rack for all sort of top rope anchors. Anything bigger than a size 11 nut just flops if you try and place it with the wire yet are just rigid enough to be more annoying on your harness. Setting An extensive set of nuts, rocks, and hexes is imperative if you’re looking to improve your climbing ability beyond the basics—any pro climber will tell you that. Good places to stand and place and fiddle with a hex are good places to break an ankle. Other passive pro includes tri-cams, Hexentrics ® (hexes) and tube chocks. Just smack the side of the nut tool repeatedly against the hex the opposite way it was set until you jar it loose. Double Cap. You can hammer them into icy cracks. I set my Rockcentric hexes as hard as I can and they have never rattled loose during a climb. So cam's would get my vote in a parrallel crack. The result is a nut that not only looks good but maximises the camming expansion - this is especially noticeable in horizontal placements. Similar to nuts, Figure 15 shows that hexes have much better weight efficiency than SLCDs as well. Shop for climbing hexes at Rock+Run for all your climbing equipment needs. The main advantage of hexes is they will work in dirty, wet or icy cracks where cams are likely to slide out. Hex nuts can be placed in three different orientations when turned on their axis, thanks to their tapered, asymmetric side faces, allowing a versatile use in a multitude of cracks. Still love the hexes for clanking up the old-school 5. The typical bolts used for protecting sport routes are around 3 – 5 inches (7 – 12 cm) in length and have an expansion sleeve that locks them into the hole when tightened down. It’s a world that has two categories: active and passive climbing protection devices. Jan 24, 2023 · Trad climbing involves a wide array of gear, including nuts, hexes, cams, Big Bros, and more, to ensure climbers stay safe. Performance *** (Hexes ****) Value **** We are always keen to test climbing hardwear here… Nov 23, 2016 · Hey Matt, if you are going up the learning curve in trad climbing, I highly recommend you buying hexes. Curved nuts have a concave face on one side and a convex face on the other. Moved Permanently. Place the nut with the cable facing in the direction of pull if you were to take a fall, which is generally down and slightly out. Nov 3, 2011 · Camming a hex in a vertical crack takes practice and time. In this update, we purchased 7 of the best sets and slid them into cracks of all sizes across the United States. We busted some climbing nuts at slacksnap. Basically, cheap, worse cams. It's hard to beat a textbook hex placement, and they do not walk into a crack like a cam. Protection refers to nuts, cams, hexes, stoppers, and so on. 95. This protection, also called pro, is placed in cracks and fissures as you climb up, and then removed, or cleaned, when you’re done, so all you leave on the rock is a few chalk marks. A large selection of nuts for a long trad route in Morrocco N uts, wires, stoppers, chocks, wedges, whatever you want to call them, have been around for a long time. Once I started climbing on gear routes that physically challenged my climbing ability the rapid placement of a cam became welcome[1]. Torque Nuts can be used to protect parallel sided cracks. . Hexes are lighter, cheaper, and scare the bears away. From cams to carabiners, nuts to nut tools, there are so many options for trad climbing gear that it’s hard to know where to even begin. Learn how to use nuts and hexes. Lightweight aluminium alloy construction means that despite their low weight, each Torque Nut has a 14kN strength rating. Good for bail gear or aid possibly, but I don't ever carry them even for that, anymore. Oct 17, 2024 · I have used the BD wired hexes, DMM Torque nuts and WC Hexcentrics. 5/5. Check out our great prices and latest deals! DMM Torque Nut Set 1-4 - Extendable Sling Passive camming. For everyday cragging, you won't miss them. Nuts Buying Guide. There’s also the question of how much gear you actually need to get started—a decision that must balance your own financial constraints with the common fear of not having enough gear to make it to the In the climbing world, your choice of passive climbing protection devices matters a lot. Pull the nut down into the constriction, paying attention to the surface contact between the nut and the rock. 5 mm in terms of possible crack sizes in which to wedge them. As ascensions become steeper and higher, it will be necessary to provide yourself with extra protection by wedging nuts into the cracks in the rock, therefore affording more Oct 18, 2024 · I have used the BD wired hexes, DMM Torque nuts and WC Hexcentrics. Feb 20, 2021 · In short, cams will go most places hexes will go (more quickly and easily), but hexes won't go a lot of places cams will. It is always best to extend nut or hex placements with a quickdraw or an extended alpine draw, according to the anticipated direction of the climb. Read Time - 9 minutes. What do you guys suggest nuts or hexes which brands and what sizes are most commonly used so I know where to start buying equipment. You'll find in the UK, most climbers skip the cams for their first rack and will opt for hexes instead as they are cheaper and work very similarly to nuts. If you already have some cams i'd definately choose 4 Torque nuts over 1 extra cam. Same thing when I did own the Torque Nuts before I sold them in favor of the Rockcentrics. Aug 1, 2010 · In reply to Roger Irrelevant: i have a full set of nuts (1-10) and then went a bought the torque nuts. Choose whichever fits best in the placement! Nuts are your bread and butter, with a few hexes for larger sizes. ETA: If you do get hexes, get the WC rockcentrics or DMM torque nuts. $19. 00 - to Aug 31, 2016 · Saved Content. Write for UKC Gear Latest Gear Gear News Gear Reviews Competitions Latest Deals Product Videos Apr 27, 2022 · A wave of articles followed: Robbins’ “Nuts to You” in the Californiabased climbing magazine Summit; Tom Frost’s “Preserving the Cracks” in the 1972 American Alpine Journal; and perhaps most eloquently, Doug Robinson’s “The Whole Natural Art of Protection” in one of clean climbing’s holy scripts, the 1972 Chouinard Equipment The rest of the nuts will slide to the bottom of the carabiner as you're inserting the piece. Nut and Hexes Ranging in size from the thickness of a matchstick to the size of your clenched fist, nuts (also called chocks, wires or stoppers) and hexes are inexpensive pieces of trad protection. ive used both torque nuts and rockcentrics and the torques overlap 2 rockcentric sizes i. They come in a variety of shapes and sizes to fit different cracks and offer versatile protection. Now I've got a pretty well rounded rack. A downside to passive protection is that it is more likely to pop out with rope drag. On some rock types hexes do work better though (Pembroke limestone) Learn how to place hexes; how to use them passively (like a nut) or actively so they cam into cracks. The document has moved here. In Kouba, we understand specific needs of every climber, that's, why we offer ten different shapes of nuts and three different types of cams. Feb 16, 2023 · Kouba Hex nuts come in sets of 6, ranging from 13 mm all the way to 44. jtoobmcvzfsokjewgzbyszaglpqdwcaopomduzvthxfxwkmmfrcllnpzllkbiatths